Le Havre: What to see and do there

Le Havre, a city of resilience and reinvention, stands proudly on the Normandy coast of France. Known for its unique blend of post-war modern architecture and natural beauty, Le Havre offers a variety of experiences for those who venture within its bounds. This article takes you on a journey through the city’s remarkable attractions, from its historical edifices to its serene natural spots.

le Havre - Beasly stairs

Beasly Stairs – Le Havre

The Staircases of Le Havre

Le Havre is a city that unfolds in layers, and perhaps nothing embodies this more than its iconic staircases. These staircases are not just pathways but narratives of the city’s undulating topography and history. They connect the city center to the elevated neighborhoods, offering picturesque views and intimate glimpses into the everyday life of its residents. As you ascend or descend, the city reveals itself in fragments – from the bustling ports to the serene rooftops.

There are 89 staircases in Le Havre, each with its own unique personality. A rough estimate suggests that there are tens of thousands of steps across all these staircases.

Each year there is a grueling Urban race, which involves running up and down many of these stairs.

Jardin Suspendu: A Garden in the Sky

High above the urban landscape, the Jardin Suspendu, or Hanging Gardens, is a testament to Le Havre’s commitment to green spaces amidst its architectural marvels. This botanical garden, set in a converted old fortress, presents a peaceful retreat with its diverse plant collections, thematic gardens, and sweeping views of the city and the Seine estuary. It’s a perfect spot for leisurely strolls, picnics, and finding a quiet moment to marvel at the beauty of nature juxtaposed against an urban backdrop.

The garden’s inception dates back to the 1950s, taking the place of a former fort from the Napoleon III era, which had seen significant destruction during the Second World War. The remnants of the fort’s walls underwent a transformation, serving as the foundation for terraces upon which the garden was meticulously designed. Landscape architect Jacques Greber was the visionary behind this transformation, crafting the garden with a unique layout that leverages these terraces. After decades of development and careful planning, the garden was finally introduced to the public in 2004, showcasing a blend of historical preservation and natural beauty.

The Beach: A Stretch of Serenity

Le Havre’s beach is a broad swath of pebbles and sand stretching along the Channel, inviting visitors for moments of relaxation, sport, and contemplation. The promenade, with its modernist design, is ideal for cycling, rollerblading, or simply enjoying a leisurely walk while soaking in the views of the vast sea. During summer, the beach becomes a hub of activity, with festivals, concerts, and open-air exhibitions, embodying the city’s vibrant spirit.

Annually, from April to September, a unique dining experience comes to life along the extensive beach promenade with 16 restaurants set up in repurposed containers. Alongside, the beach is adorned with hundreds of beach huts, cherished and passed down through families over generations. These huts serve a multifunctional purpose, providing a private space for changing, storing beach attire, and offering a place to relax.

The beach also presents a fascinating view of maritime activity, with the constant arrival and departure of large commercial vessels. Despite the bustling proximity of these ships, the water quality has been officially recognized as “Very Clean,” ensuring a pristine environment for beachgoers.

Architectural Marvels: Perret Buildings and Saint Joseph Church

Auguste Perret, a pioneer of reinforced concrete, reshaped Le Havre after it was heavily bombed during World War II. The city center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a testament to his vision, with its innovative use of concrete and harmonious designs. The Perret buildings, characterized by their functionality, light, and space, create a unique urban landscape that continues to fascinate architects and visitors alike.

Dominating this skyline is the Saint Joseph Church, Perret’s masterpiece. Its octagonal tower, soaring to 107 meters, is lined with stained glass windows that filter light into a spectrum of colors, creating a serene and spiritual atmosphere within.

This church is not just a place of worship but a symbol of rebirth and resilience, embodying the spirit of Le Havre.

MUMA: Beacon of Modern Art

The Musée d’art moderne André Malraux (MUMA), named after André Malraux, the Minister of Cultural Affairs from 1959 to 1969, houses one of France’s most extensive collections of impressionist paintings outside of Paris. Situated by the sea, its modernist architecture provides a fitting home for the works of Monet, Pissarro, and Sisley, among others. MuMa is housed in a building designed by architects Guy Lagneau, Michel Weill and Raymond Audigier, which was completed in 1961. The structure itself is a noteworthy example of post-war architecture, featuring large glass surfaces to take advantage of the building’s seaside location, providing natural light to the artwork and affording visitors a view of the sea and the port.

The museum’s exhibitions extend beyond impressionism, offering a diverse look at modern art movements. MUMA is a cultural highlight, offering insights into the artistic movements that have shaped contemporary art.

The Cathedral of Notre-Dame

Le Havre’s Cathedral of Notre-Dame, a survivor of the city’s wartime devastation (It is the oldest of the very few buildings in central Le Havre to have survived the devastation of World War II,) offers a contrasting architectural experience to Perret’s modernism. The cathedral was founded in 1517 by King Francis I and was consecrated in 1575, and although it lacks the grandeur of France’s Gothic cathedrals, its modest charm and historical layers make it a fascinating visit. The cathedral, with its blend of Renaissance and Baroque elements, serves as a beacon of continuity amidst the city’s ever-evolving landscape.

The cathedral boasts an organ, a magnificent contribution from Cardinal Richelieu in 1638. With its 5,000 pipes, it stands as one of the grandest organs across France.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Le Havre is a city of contrasts and confluences, where history and modernity coalesce in harmonious discord. From its innovative architecture to its natural retreats, the city offers a myriad of experiences waiting to be discovered. Whether you are ascending its storied staircases, wandering through the Jardin Suspendu, lounging on its expansive beach, marveling at Perret’s architectural genius, seeking spiritual solace in Saint Joseph Church, exploring modern art at MUMA, or stepping back in time at the cathedral, Le Havre invites you to partake in its unique story.


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About the Contributor

Mike Werner

I'm a Dutch journalist, who writes for American newspapers. I've lived in 22 countries and settled in France 35 years ago with my Irish wife, and I'm enchanted by its charm. You can find my writing on 'Mike's Substack' here: https://travelfrance.substack.com/

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