What to Buy and What to Try: Pays Basque – Part 2

The Basque Countryside

Heading into the Basque countryside, and giving my stomach a much-needed break, I indulge my other senses, stepping into the vibrant, technicolor universe of Lartigue 1910. While their boutiques can be found in many towns, the workshop is in the charming village of Ascain, and I want to see it all.

There is something clean and crisp about the bold stripes of Basque linens that make the world seem orderly yet fun. Entering the shop, I feel like a box of Skittles has exploded, spilling color onto a myriad of useful things: tablecloths, pillows, sling chairs, pillows, aprons, bags, towels, and the classic espadrilles. Thanks to the hydraulic energy of the river Gave d’Oloron, Anastasie and Calixte Lartigue began making fabric here in 1910. Four generations later, Philippe Lartigue, Créateur Tisserand, continues adding five to six collections a year.

His family business gained the label of Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant in 2017. He is kind and personable and explains that the traditional colors are red and green, and the seven stripes represent the seven provinces in the Basque Country. I am envious of him and his team who spend their days playing with joyful designs. It is almost impossible to make my selections, as each new pattern sways me in a new direction, and I leave wondering how all of my purchases will fit in my suitcase.


It’s a warm afternoon, and I am eager to try a refreshing Basque Cidre, so I head to Txopinondo Cider House in Ascain. Sagardo, (or Sagarno) the Basque name for cider, literally means apple (sagar) wine (ardoa). Produced here since the Middle Ages, it differs from other hard ciders in that there is no sugar or other additives. The fruit is washed, chopped, and pressed; and finally left to ferment naturally in barrels. It is also flat, not sparkling, and has a bit higher alcohol content (perhaps giving me the courage for my next feat – riding a wooden train up the mountainside).

Le Train de la Rhune is an adventure like none other. This authentic cog railway train, built in 1924, is a 35-minute ride to the summit of Mount Rhune at 905 meters. It is hard to tell if the journey or the destination is more enchanting. The red and white curtains lining the open windows dance in the wind, as we pass herds of grazing sheep, and diverse plants dotting this national heritage site. Occasionally there is a sturdy Basque pony (potto) or a group of hikers making their way up or down. At the summit, we enjoy panoramic views stretching from the Pyrenees to San Sebastián to Biarritz and beyond. Breathtaking.

Espelette

The French have a knack for blending beauty and practicality, and Espelette is a stunning example of just that. Arriving in town, it is the singularity of colorful harmony that hits me first: street after street of crisp, white houses, each adorned with deep red peppers, each choosing their own unique pattern. It is a celebration of nature’s bounty: a way to pay homage to their prize product.

As with most coveted regional specialties, piment d’Espelette has a long tradition of savoir-faire being passed down through the generations. It is believed that a Basque sailor traveling with Christopher Columbus brought back some chili peppers in the 1600s. It received its classification as an AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée ) in 2000. The deep color looks fierce and fiery, but actually the flavor is described as “mild to moderate in heat, with a fruity and slightly smoky taste”, and my delicate midwestern palate agrees. It is used in a myriad of dishes, and of course, pairs best with other local specialties. What grows together, goes together. I sit down for lunch, ready to try the mysterious Axoa, a type of veal stew with onions, sautéed tomatoes, and of course, piment d’Espelette. It is delicious, and a bit more exotic than the beef stew I am used to in the States.

I venture to the Magasin de Producteurs Lurretik which showcases piment d’Espelette in all of its forms, from the simple powdered spice to mustards, sauces, and jams. I make a mental note to come back in late October for the Pepper Festival, to share in the celebration with Basque music, dancers, and sporting competitions.

Itxassou

As much as I love exploring a beautiful city, my heart simply soars when I am driving through the French countryside. My destination is the charming village of Itxassou. I check into a lovely room at l’Hôtel Agian and am immediately drawn to the French doors offering views of rolling hills and pepper fields. Before I unpack, I head out to take a closer look, and a few dozen photos.


In the center of town, I find an informational display on the three types of cherries grown here: la Peloa, a black cherry that ripens at the end of May and is rather sweet, la Xapata, more pink in color, it ripens the beginning of June and is a bit more acidic, and la Beltxa, a dark black cherry that ripens mid-June.

I taste some jams and try to determine a favorite. I know I will order a cherry dessert at dinner, which will be at nearby Maison Bonnet. I choose the tasting menu of local, seasonal specialties, hand-crafted by Chef Beñat Bonnet. And of course, there is a delicious cherry dessert.


Ferme Agerria

Roaming even farther into the countryside, thick clouds cover the hilltops, as I lose cell service and venture into the unknown. My destination is la Ferme Agerria.

I am giddy when I spot the sheep responsible for one of my favorite cheeses: Ossau-Iraty. After a warm welcome from Bernadette and Jean-Claude, we begin our tour with the other stars of the farm, the Pie Noir pigs that produce Kintoa ham. In stark contrast to the frilly, white sheep, these black and light pink pigs have large, droopy ears that cover their eyes! They stand firmly planted in the trough, and Bernadette explains “They don’t move very fast as they really can’t see!” Able to roam freely, they seem quite happy, and apparently this makes for award-winning pork. Cured for at least 17 months, Kintoa ham is a marbled meat with a deep, strong flavor. We shift our attention to the sheep, then end in a tasting room, with my fill of local cheese and ham. A perfect way to end my adventure in the Basque Country.


What are your experiences in the Pays Basque region?


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About the Contributor

Traci Parent

Former French teacher and boutique owner, my love for the language, gastronomy, culture, and shopping lure me to each corner of France, even though we have a home base in Nice (when not in the US). I share French hidden gems & authentic experiences at www.frenchdetours.com

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