A very proud moment, and yes, I’m wearing both my lapel pins for extra swagger.

Salut les fous de vin (Hello wine lovers),

This is not an article about Beaujolais Nouveau, the marketing phenom that took the world by purple storm several decades ago, when c’était la fête (it was party time) in restos and bars celebrating the “new wine” from one of France’s lesser-known regions that really needed a publicity boost.

Oui oui, Beaujolais Nouveau était la tendance pendant des années (it was a trend for years). Light, fruity, and cause for autumnal celebration. Weeks-old baby wine juice. The French even changed the release date to coordinate with the American Thanksgiving holiday, and it’s true that Beaujolais Nouveau can be a lovely match for turkey and friends.

But if Beaujolais Nouveau has fallen a wee tad out of favor of late, tant mieux (all the better), because I’d like to introduce you to a more interesting and under-appreciated side of the Beaujolais region: Les Crus Beaujolais.

What I think of as the “Real Beaujolais” are wines of character and charm, beloved by other vignerons (winemakers) and wine insiders. If well-chosen, a cru Beaujolais can be a great gift to bring to a dinner party or to serve chez vous. These wines also generally represent excellent value as they are increasingly made in the style of their neighboring Bourgogne, but are not yet really understood by the mainstream.

Where Exactly Is the Beaujolais Region?

You’ll find Beaujolais juste au sud de (just south of) Macon in la Bourgogne (Burgundy) and juste au nord de (just north of) Lyon and the Rhone Valley.

Climate-wise, it’s a semi-continental region with influences from mountains, rivers, and the Mediterranean Sea. The variety of soil types and growing conditions allow for a range of beautiful wines, 98% of which are made from the Gamay grape.

There are 12 appellations or AOPs (appélation d’origine protégée), which are designated wine-making areas within the Beaujolais, each with their own cahier de charges (rule book).

Within those 12 are the 10 crus Beaujolais, which we’ll discover below. The other two are the “non-crus” appellations of Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages. The crus are known as the most prestigious wines in the region and are often thought of as close cousins of Burgundy wines but at a much friendlier price point.

What Are the 10 Crus Beaujolais?

The 10 Beaujolais Crus, from in the north with Saint-Amour to the south at Brouilly. Map: Vineyards.com

How to Find a Good Beaujolais Cru

Pour des vrais amateurs de vin (for real wine lovers) I always recommend being open to trying something new, so start up a conversation with your local caviste (wine seller) or sommelier. But below I’ve put together some general notes and recommendations to help you find your favorite cru Beaujolais. (Do keep in mind that we’re simplifying here because each growing situation and each winemaker expresses a unique version of the terroir and the process).

As an overview, the gamay cépage (grape variety) is known for its floral notes (violets, iris) on the nose (more floral than its famous neighbor, Burgundian pinot noir) as well as for red fruits on the palette (think raspberry, strawberry, red currant, etc) and sometimes even a little pepper or spice. Depending upon where it’s grown and how the wine is made, you’ll find softer, more minerally expressions, or wines that are powerful with solid aging potential.

Cru Beaujolais Recommendations:

Lighter style:

If you’re looking for a lighter style cru Beaujolais with finesse to have with an autumnal squash salad, a tarte aux figues (a fig tart), mushroom risotto, or a savory cake aux lardons, try the wines of Fleurie, Saint-Amour or Chiroubles.

Saint-Amour “La Gagère,” Laurent Perrachon et Fils

Fleurie “Les Roches,” Domaine Gilles Coperet

Chiroubles, Domaine de Thulon

Richer style:

If you fancy a wine with more power and richness to serve with your magret de canard (duck breast), a cheesy tartiflette, a braised lamb shoulder, or your favorite truffled dish, jump right over to Moulin-à-Vent (known as the “King of the Crus Beaujolais” for its power and structure), or the marvelous Morgon, Juliénas or Brouilly:

Moulin-à-Vent “Le Mont,” Domaine de Colette

Morgon, Côte de Py, Domaine de la Beche

Juliénas, Château Fuisse

Brouilly “Vieilles Vignes,” Jean-Claude Lapalu

And if you come across a bottle of this Régnié Vieilles Vignes from Georges Descombes (or really any other Régnié) just buy it because even in France, I rarely see this appellation—not sure why! It’s perfect for your next hearty picnic or Sunday lunch.

How to Pronounce French Wine Words: Beaujolais Edition! —listen to these audio files

If you’d like help with how to properly pronounce the 10 Crus Beaujolais—and other tips for wine words you can use to improve your French—check out the audio guides I’ve put together for you. When you really love French wine, it’s a fun exercise to enrich your vocabulary to be able to capture the elements of what you’re tasting. Some examples:

• Charnu (voluptuous)
• Charpenté (structured)
• Fruité (fruity)
• Puissant (powerful)
• Souple (supple)
• Frais (fresh)