In this the second of a four-part series, I’m taking you to one of the three most recently labeled “Most Beautiful Villages of France”, or Les Plus Beaux Villages de France – Villeneuve.

From here you can navigate easily to read the entire series:

• Les Plus Beaux Villages de France: What’s behind the precious title—Part 1/4
• Les Plus Beaux Villages de France: Villeneuve—Part 2/4 (this one)
• Part 3/4 (yet to come)
• Part 4/4

The Beautiful Village with the Rock and Roll Vibe

Welcome to Villeneuve d’Aveyron

Villeneuve d’Aveyron is known for its petite arcaded square, imposing fortified gates, and sleek 12th-century church. I saw all of this and more – but I’ll be back for Françoise Hardy. Mais oui, you read me right.  Though there are plenty of reasons to hit Villeneuve, here’s my top pick:

La Galérie Jean-Marie Périer

Jean-Marie Périer is a French photographer who spent the swinging sixties snapping shots of the best: Johnny Hallyday, Françoise Hardy, Michel Polnareff, and France Gall, just to name a few. And if you aren’t up on the yéyé era of French pop music, try these names: the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, and Bob Dylan.

You get the picture – and if you go to Villeneuve, make sure the gallery is open so you can see the pictures! So, what’s the connection between the jet-setting Périer and this quiet village in La France Profonde?

The museum employee gave me the answer via a photo hidden under the counter:

That’s French pop-rock icon Jacques Dutronc with his aunt, Mère Marguerite. who lived a long life in a convent nearby. When his friend and photographer Jean-Marie Périer was looking for a place to settle in the French countryside, Dutronc suggested Aveyron – and Périer chose Villeneuve. The rest is history, as they say.  Périer has become a prominent local figure, instrumental in opening the official gallery of his most celebrated portraits in this otherwise unlikely location.

The gallery, housed in a 14th-century manor, is a true find. In each of the thematically organized rooms, a nostalgia-inducing playlist chosen by the artist reverberates. The audio guide, narrated by Périer himself, recounts a quick anecdote about every work.

Unfortunately, I can’t legally share here such gems as rare shots of Françoise Hardy with Mick Jagger and Brian Jones, or the iconic 1966 “Photo of the Century” that grouped together 46 famous French artists, from Serge Gainsbourg to Sylvie Vartan, for a fanzine cover.

For any Francophile, this will be the highlight of your visit to Villeneuve.

Two villages in one

Villeneuve was founded in 1053 as a sauverie, or religious sanctuary. This ancient part of the town, quite naturally located around the church, consists of winding, narrow streets that still emanate a safe and peaceful atmosphere.

Nearly two centuries later, in 1231, the last count of Toulouse transformed it into a bastide — a type of fortified city specific to southwest France — adding a central market square and arcades.

Villeneuve’s church, l’Eglise du Saint-Sépulcre, links both eras, with a combination of 11th-century Romanesque and 14th-century Gothic architecture.

My experience inside the church was a bit marred by travaux en cours – work likely related to getting the village’s scenic ducks in a row before more tourists than ever make their way to this impressive edifice.

Because let’s not forget – Villeneuve is getting ready for its first season under the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France label – and it’s been a long time coming.

The end of an arduous process

Villeneuve first applied to become an LPBVF in 1998. The label’s criteria are demanding, and the town’s huge efforts finally paid off this year.

Over the decades, the village had to become 100% tourist-friendly, facilitating parking and providing clear signage at every historical corner. But it was also required to renovate all its public buildings and even, for some reason, open up a library. The LPBVF organization appears to be examining more closely how villages put modern culture to the forefront: thus the seemingly incongruous Galérie Jean-Marie Périer became a trump card in the final decision.

The label brings high hopes. As the manager of the centrally-located café Les Arcades pointed out on FranceInfo: “It’s going to be a huge plus for us – and for all of the shops. How can I even explain it, we’re so proud that it tugs at our heartstrings when we talk about it.”

Aveyron and Dordogne: the battle lines are drawn

Villeneuve’s ascension to LPBVF status also made Aveyron the top department for official beautiful villages, now surpassing Dordogne.

We know that Dordogne doesn’t want to leave us alone at the top” explained the President of the Aveyron tourism bureau in an interview.

However, not every village, whether in Aveyron, Dordogne, or elsewhere, meets LPBVF standards. And even if they do, not all are motivated to go through the selection process. One thing is sure: Aveyron will make the most of its number-one spot as long as it can.

Villeneuve pairings

Visiting a village may not fill up your whole day. Fortunately, there are plenty of other places to pair Villeneuve up with:

– Villefranche-de-Rouergue:

The closest town, population 11,720, offers lodging, fine dining, and its own distinctive bastide area. It’s also where the mini-series “All the Light We Cannot See” was filmed. More…

– Figeac:

Known for its magnificent architecture, the sous-préfecture of the Lot department, with a population of 9,770, is only 22 minutes away. More…

– Belcastel:

Belcastel, another LPBVF, lies within half an hour’s drive and offers lodging in its castle, as well as a Michelin 1-star restaurant. More…

– Najac:

Also an LPBVF, it will take you just 35 minutes to drive here from Villeneuve to explore a castle perched on a hill, with a stunning view of the Aveyron River valley. More…

Have you ever visited Villeneuve? Please share your experiences with us in the comments below.

Image credits:
All images copyright Betty Carlson/author

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