In the first part of this journey, we explored the origins and evolution of the Historical Axis of Paris, tracing its path from the Louvre through the Champs-Élysées, the monumental Arc de Triomphe, and finally to the bustling Porte Maillot.

Along the way, we uncovered fascinating stories of royal ambition, revolutionary fervour, and urban transformation.

But the story doesn’t end there.

The Voie Triomphale extends far beyond the boundaries of historic Paris, pushing westward into the modern age.

In this second part, we’ll venture into Neuilly, delve into the bold architectural landscape of La Défense, and examine the ambitious Seine-Arche project, which is shaping the future of this monumental axis.

From glass towers to futuristic terraces, this leg of the journey will reveal how the axis continues to evolve, bridging the past with the present and imagining possibilities for the future.

Let’s pick up where we left off and see where the line takes us next!

From Porte Maillot to Pont de Neuilly

From Porte Maillot, we are leaving Paris and entering into the suburb of Neuilly-sur-Seine. Let’s follow the Avenue Charles de Gaulle up to Pont de Neuilly.

The Day the Seine Claimed a King’s Carriage

It was a rainy afternoon on 6 June 1606, around 5 p.m., when King Henri IV, Queen Marie de Médicis, and their young children attempted to cross the Seine on a bac, or ferry, near Neuilly. They were returning from a visit to the royal château at Saint-Germain-en-Laye when disaster struck. As the ferry made its way across the river, two horses pulling the royal carriage slipped, causing the heavy vehicle to tip and plunge into the Seine. In the chaos, the carriage sank into the murky waters, trapping the queen and the royal children, all under the age of four, beneath the surface. Witnesses looked on in horror as the Seine threatened to claim the royal family.

But Henri IV, renowned for his bravery, sprang into action. With the help of his entourage, the king personally dove into the water and pulled his family to safety. The queen, the children, and several attendants were rescued in the nick of time. The event left the court shaken and highlighted the dangers of relying on an outdated ferry system.

The Birth of the Pont Henri IV

The near-tragedy prompted Henri IV to order the construction of a safer, more reliable crossing at Neuilly. By the king’s command, a wooden bridge with sixteen arches was built, directly aligned with the current Rue du Pont. Known as the Pont Henri, it became the first permanent structure to connect this part of the Seine, replacing the risky ferry service. Crossing the new bridge, however, came at a cost. To finance its construction and upkeep, a toll was imposed on all who used it.

This wooden structure served its purpose well until 1638, when a severe flood destroyed it. The bridge was later rebuilt with fourteen arches, ensuring continued access between the growing western suburbs and the city of Paris.

A Bridge Through Time

The wooden bridges of the 17th century have long since been replaced, but the Pont de Neuilly remains a vital link in the Historical Axis of Paris. The modern version, completed in the 1950s, is a sleek concrete structure designed to handle the demands of contemporary traffic. Yet beneath its functional appearance lies a rich history shaped by royal drama, engineering innovation, and the evolution of Paris as a global city.

From Royal Rescue to Modern Transition

As you cross the Pont de Neuilly today, it’s hard to imagine the scene on that rainy day in 1606—the panicked cries, the swift action of Henri IV, and the birth of a bridge that would forever change the way people crossed the Seine. The modern bridge serves as a symbolic transition between eras: behind you, the Arc de Triomphe stands as a testament to Paris’s historical grandeur, while ahead, the Grande Arche at La Défense signals the city’s embrace of modernity.

The Pont de Neuilly may no longer bear its original wooden arches, but its legacy endures, connecting the past with the future.

As we step off the bridge and into the bold skyline of La Défense, we leave behind the echoes of royal carriages and enter a world of skyscrapers and glass towers.

Shall we continue?

La Défense and the Grande Arche: A Monument to Modernity

Welcome to La Défense, Paris’s business district and the western anchor of the Historical Axis. Here, the classical beauty of Paris gives way to a futuristic skyline. Sleek skyscrapers rise in glass and steel, reflecting the ever-changing sky. And at the heart of it all stands the Grande Arche, a structure as symbolic as it is colossal.

Completed in 1989 for the bicentennial of the French Revolution, the Grande Arche was designed by Danish architect Johan Otto von Spreckelsen. Its shape—a perfect hollow cube—was meant to represent a window open to the world. At 110 metres tall, it’s so vast that you could fit Notre Dame Cathedral and its spire inside its frame. Unlike the Arc de Triomphe, which celebrates military glory, the Grande Arche stands for progress and humanity’s shared ideals: freedom, equality, and fraternity. Its clean, minimalist design reflects these modern values, making it an enduring symbol of a Paris that honours its past while looking to the future.

A View Once Seen

There was a time when you could take a lift to the top of the Grande Arche and stand on its panoramic terrace. From there, the view along the Historical Axis was breathtaking. To the east, the Arc de Triomphe aligned perfectly, framed by the avenue and flanked by the Seine. Beyond it, you could just make out the Obelisk of Luxor and the Louvre, shimmering in the distance.

Standing on that terrace, you didn’t just see a line of monuments—you experienced a narrative. It was a story of Paris, its people, and their dreams, stretching from the royal ambitions of Louis XIV to the bold modernity of La Défense. That perspective offered a rare chance to grasp the sheer scale and symbolism of the axis in a single sweeping view. Unfortunately, the terrace is no longer open to the public, and access to this iconic viewpoint is now closed. Yet the Grande Arche remains a powerful presence, its towering form continuing to anchor the western end of the axis and invite reflection on Paris’s evolution.

A Modern Chapter in an Ancient Line

Even without climbing to its summit, the Grande Arche captures the imagination. It represents a bold continuation of the axis, a reminder that Paris is a city that never stands still. As you stand beneath its massive arches and gaze back toward the historical heart of Paris, you can’t help but feel the connection between past and present—a line that ties centuries of vision and ambition into a single, unbroken thread.

The Future of the Axis: Beyond La Défense

Our journey along the Historical Axis might feel complete, but its story is still unfolding. Urban planners have ambitious projects to extend the axis further westward, into the suburb of Nanterre and beyond. Known as the Seine-Arche project, this large-scale urban development initiative is transforming the area with new terraces, green spaces, and architectural landmarks, further enriching the legacy of the axis.

The Seine-Arche Project: A Bold New Vision

The Seine-Arche project, led by the Établissement public d’aménagement de la Défense Seine Arche (EPADESA), extends the axis westward from La Grande Arche in La Défense to the Parc du Chemin-de-l’Île, where the Seine once again becomes the defining boundary—this time between Nanterre and Carrières-sur-Seine in the Yvelines. This ambitious operation of national interest spans 3.2 kilometres and integrates an impressive array of spaces and buildings. The project creates a central public space approximately 80 metres wide, flanked by 20 terraced levels that follow the natural topography of the terrain.

Despite the challenge of highways and rail lines cutting through the area—such as the A14 (which runs underground here via the Nanterre-La Défense tunnel)—the project prioritises pedestrian pathways and green spaces. Only local traffic is permitted along the Boulevard de Pesaro, ensuring a serene and accessible environment.

Place Nelson-Mandela: A Modern Link in the Historical Axis

At the heart of the Seine-Arche project is Nelson-Mandela Square, a 1.5-hectare public space inaugurated on 25 October 2010. Located on the western continuation of the Historical Axis, the square connects La Grande Arche to the Seine. Designed with granite paving, pedestrian walkways, and surrounding terraces, the square is a modern interpretation of the axis’s grandeur. Adding to its cultural and symbolic significance, the square was the focus of an artist competition in the 2010s, with the goal of installing an artwork that would extend the axis’s visual and symbolic narrative. Beneath the square, the Nanterre-La Défense tunnel channels the A14 highway, making it a literal and figurative bridge between historical tradition and modern urban planning. Nelson-Mandela Square also sits near key landmarks such as the Parc André Malraux and the Hauts-de-Seine Prefecture, which dates back to the creation of the department in 1968. This juxtaposition of green spaces and government structures reflects the balanced vision of the Seine-Arche project.

Paris La Défense Arena: A New Giant Along the Axis

Between Nelson-Mandela Square and La Grande Arche, another modern landmark has emerged: the Paris La Défense Arena. Opened in 2017, this multi-purpose venue can host up to 30,000 spectators for sporting events and up to 40,000 people for concerts, making it the largest indoor performance venue in Europe. It serves as the home stadium for Racing 92, a premier French rugby team, and regularly hosts international performances. The arena’s proximity to the axis adds a dynamic, contemporary element to the area, further symbolising Paris’s evolution as a city that honours its history while embracing bold new futures.

A Continuation of Vision

The Seine-Arche project ensures that the Historical Axis remains a living, breathing part of Paris’s identity. From the grandeur of La Grande Arche to the serene banks of the Seine, this western extension brings new life to a centuries-old design. It’s a reminder that Paris never stops evolving—always reaching forward while honouring the visionaries of its past. As the terraces and pathways lead us westward, the Historical Axis becomes not just a line through the city, but a bridge between eras, people, and possibilities.

The Western Terminus That Never Was: The Croix de Noailles

The Historical Axis may currently culminate at the Grande Arche in La Défense, but its trajectory hints at a grander vision that never came to fruition. Follow the axis westward, beyond the Seine and through Nanterre, and you’ll eventually reach the Croix de Noailles, a secluded spot in the heart of the Forêt de Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

This tranquil location was once poised to become the ultimate endpoint of Paris’s Voie Triomphale.

A Bold Vision to Extend the Axis

The Croix de Noailles, an intersection of forest paths named after a noble family with ties to the region, captured the imagination of urban planners in the early 20th century. Its symbolic and geographic alignment with the axis inspired an audacious proposal: a direct, straight-line connection from Avenue de la Grande Armée in Paris to the heart of the forest. This idea was not just about urban aesthetics.

By 1902, modern modes of transportation—such as the automobile—were making the forests around Paris more accessible. The Courrier de Seine-et-Oise wrote enthusiastically:

The Forest of Saint-Germain is increasingly becoming, with our new modes of locomotion, not just a destination but a centre of excursions, a starting point for Parisian outings…”

The proposal envisioned a grand thoroughfare linking Paris to the Croix de Noailles, transforming the forest into a recreational hub for city dwellers. The project would have extended the Historical Axis by approximately 20 kilometres, creating an even more monumental route than what exists today.

Interrupted by Wars and Time

Despite its appeal, this ambitious plan faced significant obstacles. The onset of World War I in 1914 halted development, as resources and attention were diverted to the war effort. The idea resurfaced in the 1930s, when urban planner Henri Prost included it in his broader plans for reorganising the Paris region. However, the upheaval of World War II and the post-war focus on reconstruction ultimately led to the project’s permanent abandonment.

Today, the Croix de Noailles remains a serene forest landmark, its quiet paths a far cry from the grandeur once imagined. It’s a poignant reminder of how history, with its twists and turns, shapes the evolution of cities and their ambitions. Standing at the Croix de Noailles today, it’s easy to imagine what might have been—a straight line stretching all the way back to the Louvre, uniting forest and city in one sweeping perspective.

It’s a dream that was never realised, but one that continues to echo in the history of Paris.

A Hidden Transportation Connection: Following the Axis Underground

The Historical Axis of Paris isn’t just a guide for your eyes—it’s also a path for Paris’s modern transportation network. Did you know that the Metro Line 1 and the RER A follow much of the axis, weaving beneath the surface of this grand alignment? And if you’d prefer to stay above ground, the Bus 73 mirrors parts of the route, offering a slower but scenic perspective of the city.

This isn’t a coincidence. The same logic that shaped the axis’s monuments—connecting key points of power and prestige—also influenced the city’s transportation planners.

Mysteries and Marvels of the Historical Axis

The Historical Axis of Paris is more than just a straight line of monuments—it’s a tapestry of mysteries, coincidences, and deliberate design choices that continue to fascinate. Some of these elements are strikingly obvious; others reveal themselves only when you start to dig deeper.

Let’s explore some of the most intriguing facts and anecdotes surrounding this legendary alignment.

The Intriguing Angles of the Historical Axis

The Historical Axis of Paris is more than a straight line—it’s a geometric enigma with angles that raise as many questions as they answer. One of its most remarkable features is its 26° tilt, perfectly aligned with the setting sun. On certain days of the year, the sun sets directly along the axis, bathing the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe in a golden glow. This alignment isn’t just stunning—it also mirrors the orientation of Notre-Dame Cathedral, located about 1,000 metres from the Louvre. Was this a mere coincidence, or a deliberate link between Paris’s sacred and royal histories, tying the spiritual and the secular into one cohesive narrative?

Adding to the intrigue is the misalignment of the axes at both ends of the line. At the eastern start, the Louvre Palace deviates by six degrees from the axis, a quirk that has puzzled historians and architects alike.

Was it the result of medieval urban planning constraints, or a symbolic gesture by the palace’s original designers? Curiously, this six-degree angle reappears—in reverse—at the western end, where the Grande Arche de La Défense also tilts slightly away from the axis. Officially, this deviation was due to technical constraints during the modern construction process. However, many believe it was a deliberate choice by François Mitterrand, whose presidency oversaw the Grande Arche’s completion. The tilt redirects the gaze toward an entirely new alignment, one that passes through the Panthéon and the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand—two key landmarks in Mitterrand’s vision of a modern and intellectual Paris. These angles, both deliberate and mysterious, challenge the idea of the axis as a rigid straight line.

Instead, they add layers of complexity and symbolism, linking Paris’s historical, spiritual, and intellectual dimensions in ways that continue to intrigue and inspire.

The Sun’s Dance Along the Historical Axis

The Historical Axis is not only a man-made marvel but also a stage for celestial events.

On specific days each year, the sun aligns perfectly with the axis, creating spectacular moments of natural symmetry.

• The sun sets towards the west, directly beneath the Arc de Triomphe, on six occasions: 7th, 8th, and 9th May, and again on 3rd, 4th, and 5th August. These alignments are best viewed from the Place de la Concorde, where the golden light frames the arch and the Champs-Élysées in breathtaking beauty.
• The sun rises towards the east, also aligned with the Arc de Triomphe, on four occasions: 4th, 5th, and 6th February, and 7th November. Observers at the Porte Maillot can witness the sun breaking the horizon, perfectly centred under the arch.

The Mystery of the Three Arches

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile, and the Grande Arche share a fascinating relationship.

Did you know their sizes approximately double at each stage?

• The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is the smallest, standing at 19 metres high.
• The Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile towers at 50 metres.
• The Grande Arche takes it to a monumental scale at 110 metres.

This progression mirrors the increasing ambition of each era, from Napoleon’s imperial conquests to modern France’s embrace of global ideals. And the symmetry doesn’t stop there. The distances between these landmarks also follow a pattern.

It’s 1 kilometre from the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel to the Luxor Obelisk, 2 kilometres from the Obelisk to the Arc de Triomphe, and 4 kilometres from the Arc to the Statue of La Défense de Paris near La Grande Arche.

These doubling distances give the axis a sense of rhythm and scale that feels almost too perfect to be accidental.

                         The Esplanade of La Défense with the Statue of La Défense de Paris to the right and in the distance, the Arc de Triomphe passed Neuilly.

Whispers of Freemasonry and Egyptology

This extraordinary precision has led to all sorts of theories. Some suggest that the axis was influenced by Freemasonry, with its love of geometry and symbolism. Others point to the presence of the Luxor Obelisk as evidence of a deeper connection to Egyptology—a fascination that gripped Europe in the 19th century.

Could the alignment of the monuments and their proportions reflect some hidden code or esoteric knowledge? Or perhaps it’s all just a coincidence. After all, the axis has evolved over centuries, with each generation adding its own mark. Whether deliberate or serendipitous, the result is undeniably awe-inspiring.

Paris’s Legacy Around the World

The Historical Axis of Paris hasn’t just shaped the city—it’s inspired urban planners across the globe.

Similar monumental alignments can be found in:

• Washington, D.C., where Pierre Charles L’Enfant, a French-born architect, designed the city with a grand perspective connecting the U.S. Capitol, the Washington Monument, and the Lincoln Memorial.
• Canberra, Australia, whose layout was planned by Walter Burley Griffin and Marion Mahony Griffin, drawing clear inspiration from Paris’s axial design.
• Brasília, Brazil, where architect Oscar Niemeyer and urban planner Lúcio Costa created a visionary capital with sweeping perspectives reminiscent of the Historical Axis.

These cities demonstrate how Paris’s architectural vision has left its mark far beyond France, influencing the way power, history, and progress are symbolised in urban landscapes.

Conclusion: A Line That Tells a Story

Walking the Historical Axis of Paris is like walking through time. Every step reveals a new chapter, from the royal ambitions of Louis XIV to the revolutionary fervour of the 18th century, from Napoleonic triumphs to the bold modernity of La Défense. It’s more than an alignment of monuments—it’s a thread that ties Paris’s past, present, and future together.

Next time you’re in Paris, take a moment to follow this line.
Start at the Louvre, stand beneath the Arc de Triomphe, cross the Pont de Neuilly, and marvel at the Grande Arche.
Along the way, you’ll see not just a city, but a story.

And who knows? You might even discover your own chapter in the tale.

Have you ever explored the Historical Axis of Paris? Which part intrigued you the most? Let me know—I’d love to hear your thoughts!