13.36.a - Decrypting Restaurants in France: Restos, Bistros, Brasseries, BOUILLONS...

This week I'll start with a focus on the 'Bouillon' - here are our top 6 Bouillons in Paris + member comments & favourites + history, food, interiors and much more...

Today at a Glance: your PAID weekly newsletter

1. Decrypting Restaurants in France: Restos, Bistros, Brasseries, Bouillons...

2. What our members say about the Bouillons in Paris

3. Six of the Best Bouillons in Paris - according to us

4. Thank you so much for your support

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1. Decrypting Restaurants in France: Restos, Bistros, Brasseries, Bouillons...

This topic is more complex than may meet the eye, so let’s start exploring Bouillons this week before we move on to Brasseries, Bistros, and more.

a. Bouillons: restaurants named after broth?

“Bouillon” restaurants have their origins in the 19th century and are an integral part of French –  or more specifically – Parisian, culture. They started off as places for working-class people to gather and enjoy a filling meal at an affordable price, however, the French Bouillon restaurants have a more complex history. 

“Bouillon”, of course, refers to a type of soup or broth — and is fundamental to the story of these inexpensive restaurants.

b. The first Bouillons

The very first Bouillons in Paris opened in 1767 (by a soup vendor named Boulanger) on Rue des Poulies, specialising in consommés.

In the late 19th century, a clever butcher named Pierre Louis Duval who was concerned with wastage at his boucherie shops, decided to open a shop in Les Halles for the workers. There, he prepared and served a broth made using meats that he was unable to sell to his bourgeois customers, such as beef neck and knuckle bones.

In 1900, nearly 250 Bouillons could be found in Paris. They became the first chain of restaurants for the working class.

c. Why the resurgence in recent times…

Though Bouillons have faded in and out of popularity over the decades, they’ve largely stood the test of time, and over the last 20 years or so there’s been a real resurgence of interest in bouillon restaurants in Paris.

Is this resurgence of Bouillons due to many in Paris saying “NO” to the ever-escalating cost of living? Or is it simply a swing of the culinary pendulum, adjusting after a decade or more turned toward lighter, sauceless dishes, smaller portions, vegetarian specialties, sharing, and snacking?

Whatever the reason, the good old-fashioned brasserie, and even more old-fashioned “bouillon,” both providing simple, nostalgic dishes at affordable prices, have made an astonishing comeback recently.

d. Beautiful Belle-Epoque interiors…

In the late 19^th century, the Art Nouveau movement spread throughout Europe at the time that Paris played host to the 1878, 1889, and 1900 World Fairs.

More staple French dishes were added to the menus, such as pot-au-feu, beef bourguignon, and mousse au chocolat.

Restaurant interiors at popular Bouillons such as Chartier and Julien were heavily influenced by the Belle Epoque: mahogany tables and chairs, ornate mirrors, stained glass panels, mosaic-tiled floors, and elaborate frescos. 

Offering the double allure of ornate interiors and more diverse menu options, Bouillons once again in the 20th century began to attract wealthier Parisians.

It’s also worth noting that this bouillon resurgence is happening as the high, fine-dining model has fallen from fashion.

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Paid subscribers this week have access to our member opinions and favourite Bouillons + our list of the 6 Best Bouillons in Paris - please consider upgrading your subscription to gain access.