French villages and major cities grab a lot of media attention, but les villes moyennes – mid-sized towns with a population of 20,000 to 100,000 – can be excellent destinations, either as a base or for a weekend getaway.
Oh, you're in Cahors right now? How long are you staying/did you stay? I actually wrote three longer pieces on the city on my own Substack publication, France in Between. They were published in summer of 2024. I wonder if you got to the old library, which is also fascinating. Would love to hear back from you!
I went to Cahors a year ago, a day trip from Sarlat. It sounded lovely and as it was our wedding anniversary, I had made a lunch reservation at a restaurant that had been highly recommended. We were going to tour a nearby winery as well, but it was raining that day, so we nixed that and drove an hour and a half for our eagerly anticipated lunch. Parked somewhere we were pretty sure we'd be able to find the car again, and wandered through wet medieval streets marveling at the stonework. I couldn't believe my eyes when we got to the restaurant. A hand-lettered sign in the window of the door: "Fermé exceptionelle". We had an unmemorable lunch somewhere nearby, but the memory that stays is of the narrow alleys, massive wooden doors and the smell of wet stone. It was quite lovely.
Oh that's quite the story! I can only imagine that there was some sort of true emergency, or a major technical problem, because although French business hours can be dicey, it would be highly unusual for a restaurant that had taken reservations to simply be closed.
I've been to a lot of cities now where the advice is "wander through the medieval streets", but the ones in Cahors are exceptional.
Yes, I unfortunately was not able to see the jardins secrets because they are mainly on private property and don't open when it's raining, which it was on my second day. They also have a garden/ing festival in June.
Having little kids does indeed slow things down. Cahors is actually quite a hop from some parts of the Dordogne, the latter being a big department. We lived near Tours for 3 years when our girls were small -- one was born there -- and didn't explore the area very fully, although we did get to some of the castles as those are pretty kid-friendly visits to do. Do you still live in France? (I think I may have asked you this.)
I love this area of France but the pronunciation of Cahors (Cow--her?) always baffles me. My husband and I ate lunch there at a Michelin started restaurant (fabulous omelettes) before heading on to Domme.. The view of the Dordogne river and Beynac beyond in the distance is priceless.
Hi Karen, I was going to say something similar to Kathy. I wouldn't worry too much about the H, really you just glide softly from the A to the O sound and as you do so, there will be a little air released in your mouth a bit like an H but if it were written CAORS the pronunciation would be the same. And don't worry about emphasis, French is not syllable-stressed in the same way English is. Some say there is stress on the last syllable of a word but it really depends on the rhythm of the sentence, and sometimes the meaning the person is trying to convey--which is complicated too!
FROM: James Murphy
1d
Beautiful review. I am in Cahors now with a Road Scholar tour and will make a point of seeing these lovely areas. Thanks.
FROM Betty Carlson
France in Between
34m
Oh, you're in Cahors right now? How long are you staying/did you stay? I actually wrote three longer pieces on the city on my own Substack publication, France in Between. They were published in summer of 2024. I wonder if you got to the old library, which is also fascinating. Would love to hear back from you!
FROM: Now to France
2d
I went to Cahors a year ago, a day trip from Sarlat. It sounded lovely and as it was our wedding anniversary, I had made a lunch reservation at a restaurant that had been highly recommended. We were going to tour a nearby winery as well, but it was raining that day, so we nixed that and drove an hour and a half for our eagerly anticipated lunch. Parked somewhere we were pretty sure we'd be able to find the car again, and wandered through wet medieval streets marveling at the stonework. I couldn't believe my eyes when we got to the restaurant. A hand-lettered sign in the window of the door: "Fermé exceptionelle". We had an unmemorable lunch somewhere nearby, but the memory that stays is of the narrow alleys, massive wooden doors and the smell of wet stone. It was quite lovely.
FROM: Betty Carlson
France in Between
27m
Oh that's quite the story! I can only imagine that there was some sort of true emergency, or a major technical problem, because although French business hours can be dicey, it would be highly unusual for a restaurant that had taken reservations to simply be closed.
I've been to a lot of cities now where the advice is "wander through the medieval streets", but the ones in Cahors are exceptional.
It looks lovely Betty. Lots of greenery, which I love. Martin's painting looks like an exercise in pointillism 🎨
Yes, I unfortunately was not able to see the jardins secrets because they are mainly on private property and don't open when it's raining, which it was on my second day. They also have a garden/ing festival in June.
Thank you for taking us around lesser-known cities in France. All I knew about Cahors was the wine. Your post was a fantastic take on Cahors.
Thank you Rachel! Interestingly, I'm on a trip right now and just drove through the city yesterday, although I went much further afield.
Betty, that's a Super photo of the bridge! I don't know why we never went to visit it from the Dordogne, maybe too busy with little kids...
Having little kids does indeed slow things down. Cahors is actually quite a hop from some parts of the Dordogne, the latter being a big department. We lived near Tours for 3 years when our girls were small -- one was born there -- and didn't explore the area very fully, although we did get to some of the castles as those are pretty kid-friendly visits to do. Do you still live in France? (I think I may have asked you this.)
Yes, I'm next to Angers, near my eldest daughter and granddaughters.
Oh right! Angers is always on those “best place to live” lists. I’ve just driven through.
I’ll be interested to read what city you're visiting!
I’m doing three! It’s a mini road trip.
I love this area of France but the pronunciation of Cahors (Cow--her?) always baffles me. My husband and I ate lunch there at a Michelin started restaurant (fabulous omelettes) before heading on to Domme.. The view of the Dordogne river and Beynac beyond in the distance is priceless.
I don't know phonetic spelling but try thinking Ka or, with emphasis on the first syllable.
kah’ or?
Hi Karen, I was going to say something similar to Kathy. I wouldn't worry too much about the H, really you just glide softly from the A to the O sound and as you do so, there will be a little air released in your mouth a bit like an H but if it were written CAORS the pronunciation would be the same. And don't worry about emphasis, French is not syllable-stressed in the same way English is. Some say there is stress on the last syllable of a word but it really depends on the rhythm of the sentence, and sometimes the meaning the person is trying to convey--which is complicated too!
Thank you that is helpful.