The Forest in the City : A Private Tour of Paris’s Most Mysterious Sanctuary — Le musée de la Chasse et de la Nature
Paris in May is a city of gentle awakenings. The harsh winter light has given way to a soft, golden glow that filters through the chestnut trees. Yet, even in the heart of spring, the Marais retains its mysteries. While the crowds gather on the terraces of Rue des Archives, I feel irresistibly drawn to the calm and shade of the neighborhood’s historic stone walls.
I push open a heavy green door on Rue des Archives, leaving the afternoon light behind. Here is the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Museum of Hunting and Nature), a place that defies the seasons. Housed in the Hôtel de Guénégaud, designed by François Mansart, it resembles less a museum than the private apartments of an eccentric 18th-century scholar, a lover of the forest.
Wandering through these rooms is to experience a unique kind of French escape. It’s a large-scale cabinet of curiosities, where the age-old connection between humankind and the wilderness is explored through silk, antlers, and oil paintings. In the Forest Room, the walls are adorned with stylized bronze trees. Instinctively, I reach out to touch the intricately carved woodwork, almost expecting to feel the rough bark beneath my fingers. But the true heart of the mansion is the Owl Ceiling. In this small, circular room, thousands of real owl feathers cover the ceiling, gazing with a silent, nocturnal intensity. It’s a sight that evokes a subtle, poetic shiver; a sanctuary where velvet curtains muffle the springtime hum of the city.
When I finally return to the street, my eyes still adjusting to the dim amber glow of the chandeliers, I seek to prolong the magic of the place. Just opposite the museum stands a stone facade that tells no story. No sign, no menu, no bustling terrace—just a small, discreet heart carved in relief in the stone.
This is Sevenly Heart.
Stepping into this tea room is like being invited into a private home from another era. Magnificent exposed beams, rough stone walls, and a collection of unusual antiques create an atmosphere of “old Paris” that few tourists take the time to discover. Sitting there, in the quiet coolness the thick stone walls offer against the May heat, I often think about how the city’s textures influence our desires. The gnarled woods and bronze trees across the street call for something rich, structured, and deeply comforting.
In my kitchen, this inspiration materialized as a cream puff with toasted pecans and praline. I wanted to create a pastry that reflects the textures of the Rue des Archives: the creak of forest flooring, the silky softness of the museum’s curtains, and the timeless warmth of a hidden courtyard in the Marais.
The bitterness of roasted pecans balances the sweetness of caramel, creating a treat that acts as a sophisticated bridge between the wild and the refined. It’s the gourmet equivalent of a stroll through the 3rd arrondissement: mysterious, elegant, and deeply rooted in tradition.
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Marais Practical Information
Museum of Hunting and Nature: 62 Rue des Archives, 75003 Paris. Open on Tuesdays (a rarity in Paris!). Don’t miss the Unicorn Cabinet.
Sevenly Heart: 55 Rue des Archives, 75003 Paris. Look for the heart carved in stone. It’s a haven of coolness and calm on beautiful May days.
Recipe: Cream Puffs with Toasted Pecans and Praline
Inspired by the textures of Rue des Archives
I. Pecan Praline (Liquid Gold Center)
Toast 200g of raw pecans at 180°C (350°F) for 15 minutes, until they release their woody aroma. Meanwhile, melt 150g of granulated sugar until it becomes a deep amber caramel. Pour the caramel over the pecans on a baking sheet and sprinkle with a pinch of sea salt. Once the caramel has hardened, pulse it in a food processor. Stop halfway to obtain a crunchy praline-like powder, then continue processing until the nuts release their oils and form a smooth, liquid paste.
II. Choux Pastry
In a saucepan, bring to a boil 125 ml water, 125 ml whole milk, 110 g butter, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of sugar. Stir in 140 g flour all at once and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring vigorously to dry out the dough. Transfer the dough to a mixing bowl and beat in 4 to 5 eggs one at a time until the dough is smooth and forms a hook around the spatula. Pipe the choux pastry and bake at 180°C (350°F) for 35 minutes. Editor’s Tip: Never open the oven door during baking, as the steam is responsible for the “forest” formation inside the choux.
III. Pecan Cloud Cream
Whip 250g of very cold heavy cream with 150g of mascarpone and 30g of powdered sugar until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in the reserved crunchy praline powder for texture.
IV. Assembly
Cut the tops off the cooled cream puffs. Fill the base with the pecan cloud cream, making a small well in the center to pour in a generous teaspoon of liquid praline. Replace the tops, pipe a small rosette of cream on top, and finish with a toasted pecan.
If you have any praline left over, it will be delicious on a slice of toasted brioche the next morning.
Elisabeth
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