15.02 - Marseille: A Coastal Visit — A personal guided tour
This FREE edition of le Bulletin will take us to Marseille for a personal tour of the spectacular coast and superb tiny coves, then back inside for a simple but delicious winter meal and recipe...
Bonjour and Happy New Year francophile friends… I’m thrilled you’re here again this week — Bienvenue/welcome.
As we enter the New Year, some in the northern hemisphere are experiencing snow, and others in the southern hemisphere are scorching in heat waves, hopefully at the beach. It’s still the perfect time for reflection, planning trips to France, or just taking time out. Irrespective, let’s visit France together in this edition—even if it is vicariously.
Below you’ll find:
What’s happening in MyFrenchLife Magazine - new articles.
Next… Marseille: A Coastal Visit — My Guided Tour — lower down in this newsletter,
If you enjoy this edition, please note that every week there is another entirely different version of le bulletin exclusively for paying subscribers. This week that edition is ‘15.02.a - Capturing precious moments: in France or at home — I challenge you’ and exceptionally it has NO PAYWALL. Look for it in your inbox (or here)!
Note the newsletter numbering. 15.02 means this is the second newsletter in the 15th year of MyFrenchLife Magazine and le Bulletin newsletter! Wow, I find that hard to believe.
What a journey! I’ve loved every bit of it, and quite a number of you have been with me all the way, or for years. You’re welcome even if you’ve just found le Bulletin today.
Merci mille fois.
Judy - 11.1.2025
1. Let’s explore & read the new articles in My FrenchLife Magazine
Did you know there are many articles in MyFrenchLife Magazine, where savvy francophiles love to immerse themselves and indulge?
Thank you to all Contributors to our magazine. I love that your articles take us from one end of France to another and constantly remind us of the rich culture of this wonderful and diverse country.
Merci.
Judy.
→ Here you’ll find the most recently published articles:
… and now a recipe that’s perfect for the chilly, snowy weather
→French recipes: Winter Vegan Minestrone Soup
by Allison Mitchell
This minestrone, while it won’t win any beauty pageants, is one that makes your spoon heavy; it’s so loaded with vegetables and beans and pasta it’s basically a stew. You have to bring your face close to your bowl for the shortest possible journey to your mouth, a winter dish if ever there was one…
Read the entire article and the recipe! ←
2. → Marseille: A Coastal Visit — My Guided Tour
by Suzanne Grosso Vidal
Whether you know Marseille or have never been there, you’ll enjoy how Suzanne takes you by the hand and gives you tips to guide you to follow in her footsteps and discover these wonderful: huge vistas and tiny ports.
I have been quite fortunate to spend a lot of time in Marseille, recently. There’s no knowledge like local knowledge and having been shown around by someone who grew up in Marseille. It has been remarkable. Who knew all that lies beneath this mysterious city? Marseille gets a lot of bad press. Some are warranted but like any big city, there are bad, good, and wonderful areas. Here’s what I would do if I had a few days in Marseille. Enjoy taking this walk with me.
*I started from the top and worked my way down the coast (for reference)
Palais du Pharo
If you watched any of the Olympic Games last summer, you may have wondered where all of the beautiful images of Marseille were shot.
Well, I found it!
Le Palais du Pharo.
This is a large conference center which looks out onto the entrance of the Old Port. From here you have incredible views of all of Marseille. Not only are you looking at the mouth of the harbor and straight down into the port but from here you can see just about every landmark.
Across the channel, one is looking directly at the Fort Saint-Jean and the Place d’Armes which are two ancient landmarks.
To the left, you will see the Mucem, and just behind it Le Cosquer museums and Les Terrace des Ports.
Follow along to your right and your eyes will guide you down to the harbor with what seems to be hundreds of masts lining the old port.
As you follow the direction of the masts into the sky, you will be led in the direction of the beautiful Notre Dame de la Garde (The Pope came to visit last year).
The Virgin Mary appears floating in the sky as she looks down over all of Marseille.
From Le Pharo, you will witness one of the most incredible views of Marseille.
After a stroll around the Palace, I would find a seat in the sun, hang out, and take in the extraordinary views. That’s what the locals do. If you get to Marseille I wouldn’t miss it.
Hungry?
Le Chalet du Pharo is just below.
When you’re looking at the Palais in front of you, closer to the entrance, you’ll see a path to your right which will take you down to this spot. Here you can enjoy a little bite or a coffee and take in the exceptional views of the Port du Marseille.
Plage de Catalans
Just a walk down the street from “Le Pharo” you will find yourself at the beach. La Plage des Catalans is a favorite of the locals. In my eyes, it’s a city beach and it reminds me of some of the beaches I’ve seen in Italy and Casablanca. It’s a nice sandy beach nestled into the groove of the sea wall. It’s a sun trap and here you’ll find many people doing what beachgoers do. Sunning themselves! There is also a volleyball pitch and you can feast your eyes on all of the beauties knocking the ball around. Fun atmosphere!
As always, across the street are a few cafes so if you need to grab a drink or a quick bite, it’s all there. Want something fancier? Walk along the water towards the corniche and head towards the Vallon des Auffes. There are many little restaurants along the way, but this little port is worth a visit. It’s ancient Marseille at its best. You wouldn’t know it was there so take my word for it. It’s also known for its famous restaurant Fon Fon. Here you can have the famous local specialty, Bouillabase. I’d suggest booking ahead.
Vallon des Auffes
This is exactly the kind of place I love to find. It is so local and is one of the oldest little ports of Marseille. A true fishing village, smack in the middle of the city.
How do you find it?
Well, if you’re walking from Plage des Catalans, you will see a big arch looking out over the sea. It’s a war memorial and this is your sign that you have arrived. The little port is across the street and you must head down into it. You will see it from above and as you find your way down you will be taken away from the hustle and bustle of the loud street.
If you’re like me, you’ll be enchanted by all of the tiny homes, restaurants, and bars that line this ancient port. You can’t help but feel the authenticity of this area and it is clearly as local as local can be. I’ve been told that it’s very difficult to even consider living there as the residents are very selective as to who they would consider selling one of their precious abodes to.
Have a wander around, enjoy a great lunch, and take in the real local flavor. I just loved discovering the Vallon des Auffes.
If you want to wander beyond the port, walk to the end on the left (with the sea in front of you) and after winding around the quai, there will be a few stairs that will guide you up and into another neighborhood. Enjoy a nice walk and take in the views of the sea. Along the way, you’ll come across a little sailing club, some old mansions and there’s a famous hotel, ‘Le Petit Nice’. This could be another idea for lunch or dinner.
I would like to say that it is an interesting walk but like other parts of Marseille, I sometimes find it a bit run down. All that being said, you will not be bored as it truly has a history and is interesting to see. It’s quiet and calm and quite honestly, walking along the Mediterranean Sea never gets old. This neighborhood is an example of life in real time and it’s safe. One can barely imagine how people live in this big city when strolling through the likes of the Vieux Port, Le Panier, and the other more visited neighborhoods of Marseille. Here, it feels like a suburb… almost.
Plage du Prado
Now, you’ve arrived in the chic area of Marseille. I’ve been told that this is where the high society of Marseille lives and as one wanders around the area it’s easy to believe. Many houses are peering out from the hills with tremendous views of the Med… At the bottom of the Avenue du Prado, you may be blown away (as I was) to see a huge statue of David that welcomes you to the beach. Just Wow!
The Prado beach is busy and there’s something for everyone. Along the large walk, you’ll have many activities for the kids and the beach is huge so you are sure to find a place to camp out for the day. As always, there are many restaurants and cafes around so you don’t have to worry about where to eat.
Not in the mood for the beach? Right across the street is the Parc Borely where you can enjoy a lovely walk and even visit the Chateau Borely which houses decorative arts and fashion from
the 18th century.
One last stop ……..
Les Goudes
This was another of my favorite finds. Again, like Vallons des Auffes, here you’ll find an old fishing village. It is absolutely adorable and you will love walking through this quaint little spot.
There are a few restaurants along the way so take your pick. If you’re there in the summer, you may want to walk over to La Baie des Singes. This is a cool restaurant which is about a 15-minute walk away. I would recommend this as it’s right on the rocks, looking over les calanques. A walk that must be done, lunch or not. The dramatic landscape of Les Goudes is spectacular!
As you can see, Marseille has a lot to offer. These are just a few of my favorites. Walking all along the coast will give you another aspect of this beautiful city. I love it more and more each time I go. I hope that you do too!
À bientôt!
Suzanne
Is this side of Marseille new to you? Please share your experiences in the comment section below
*Note: This visit can be divided into two or three days as preferred:
1. Palais du Pharo/Plage des Catalans/Vallon des Auffes
2. Plage du Prado/Parc Borely
3. Les Goudes
Image credits:
All images copyright Suzanne Vidal/ author unless otherwise indicated
Thank you Suzanne for your regular stream of articles from the South of France as we discover, experience and better understand France beyond the cliché.
3. “Thank you for subscribing to ‘le Bulletin’ newsletter” Judy MacMahon
I hope to see you here again next week
Judy MacMahon
Fondatrice
MyFrenchLife.org
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I have to admit I've never been to Marseille, except for a brief exit from the train station on the way somewhere else in the 80s. My French daughters and friends tell me it's such a different world that it's better to go with somebody who knows the city. I wonder what Suzanne thinks of that...
Marseille is one of my favorite cities too. You have hit upon several of my favorite spots (but not all.) I keep them secreted away in my heart lest they should fall victim to Instagramming hoards.