The Mediterranean Coast: La Ciotat

Have you ever been to La Ciotat?  I go there often, and although I was unsure about this town the first time I went, I have grown to love it.  This small city has many different corners, and it is all worth a little stroll. 

What I like about La Ciotat is that it has a very young vibe. New shops and cafes are popping up, and it sometimes feels like a mini Paris. I’ve heard that a lot of young Parisians are making their way down to the south, not only to Marseille. La Ciotat is right next door, and being smaller, it is probably a nicer option for young families who are looking for good weather, the sea, and a quieter lifestyle. Here’s what I like.

The Beach

When you arrive in La Ciotat, you are at the beach.  It looks like a giant resort and there is a huge strip of beach with restaurants and cafes lining the whole coast.  The many  homes and hotels that adorn the street seem left over from a time gone by and are all very well maintained.  I think this is what I like the most.  Often, the seaside areas have been built up with modern apartments that don’t seem to correspond with this area.  Here, in La Ciotat, I would say that they did a very good job of keeping the old style alive. Everything is intact and well preserved.   One can imagine many summers spent here enjoying family and friends.  There is a timeless feel.  

If you can, don’t come in July as it is packed (like everywhere), but if you’re lucky enough to be here a bit off season, you will enjoy the nice sandy beaches, the many cafes and the general vacation feel that this sweet place has to offer.  

The Old Port

If you follow the beach to the end, you will reach the Old Port.  The first thing you will see is a giant metal structure with La Ciotat painted in big letters.  It peers down over the harbor.  When I first saw this, I thought it looked too industrial, and I wasn’t immediately impressed by this view.  It is, in fact, the sign for La Ciotat Shipyards, and it has history.  Once an industrial site specializing in the manufacturing of oil tankers, it is now in charge of the maintenance, upkeep, and repair of large yachts.

Seeing “La Ciotat” painted across the big metal arch is iconic, and the locals love it.  Getting rid of it would be like removing the Eiffel Tower from Paris.  It tells their story.  

As you walk along the edge of the port,  you will walk by many restaurants and bars.  There is always a good buzz here, and there’s something for everyone.  

If you happen to be there on a Sunday, you will find the market, which wraps itself around every inch of the Old Port.  It is one of the best markets I have been to, and you are sure to find some goodies here.  

Before I walk the port, I like to sneak up to my favorite square, which is behind the beautiful cathedral (Eglise Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption). Have a look up to the right, just across from the big “La Ciotat” sculpture, and you’ll see it.  Take a walk up the steps and go behind the cathedral, and you will stumble into Place Sadi Carnot.  It’s adorable!  There are a few little restaurants, a couple of cafes and the beautiful fountain.  It is like a scene from a movie.  On a warm summer day, you will have a lovely breeze, and you can enjoy outside seating while listening to the fountain, which is always flowing under the enormous plantain tree that shades the square..  It’s very peaceful and just so “typique”.  

Not ready to stop?  Walk around to the left and get lost in the little side streets.  There are many shops and, again, cafes.  I love “Le Cafe de L’Horloge”.  This spot reminds me of Paris and there are always many people enjoying a paper (yes, I know!) or spending a moment with a friend over coffee.  It’s a cool little hangout.  

Keep wandering down the street, and you will eventually wind your way back to the Old Port. Along the way, you will notice plenty of places to eat. I would say that you have your pick as there are many great restaurants and some of them are international.  My favorite is “Chirimol,” which is Latin American.  Excellent food and great service.  

Along with the Old Port, you will find some places tucked away.  The options are endless.  

Seaside Walk

If you’d like to check out the seaside that lies behind La Ciotat, you must walk straight up and around to the left once you’ve left the Old Port behind you.  You will pass the shipyard on your left, and if you keep winding around and go up the hill, before you know it, you’ll be walking right along the sea.  Be warned!  The rocks are covered in graffiti. 

Again, like the metal arch, when I first saw this, I thought, “What the heck is this?  It looks run down”.  However, I now see the beauty in all of it, and apparently, it has become “a thing” here.  They have found their identity in all of this creativity, and the locals like it that way.   I was told that there are open days where people can come and re-paint all of the graffiti.  It is their signature.  You will find a graffiti-lined walk, which will take you down to the pier, where you can hang out by the lighthouse, look at the open sea on one side, and admire the huge yachts being serviced on the other.  It is quite interesting.  

This walk will probably take you about 30 minutes or so.  You will be sure to see people sunning themselves amongst the rock wall that lines the sea.  It is a true local paradise.  I thought it was pretty cool.

Points of Interest

A couple of little things that I learned about La Ciotat.  

The very first film theater was built here. The Eden Theatre.  It was the home of the Lumieres Brothers who, you may know, were famous in the film industry. In fact, they were the first. The very first films were created right here in La Ciotat.   

The Eden Theater is still there and you can go see the latest films during your stay.  They sometimes have little events, and I’ve had bad luck going whenever it’s been closed off to the public due to a private event, but if you’re there for a few days, check it out.  It is a lovely building with and lovely history.  

The other thing, as I mentioned a bit earlier, is that La Ciotat is renowned for its expertise in ship building and repair.  There is evidence of this throughout.  You can’t help but notice the yachts in the harbor and the shipyards that are just beyond the old port.  Thanks to this, the area is home to many foreigners who come to La Ciotat to work on the boats.  There’s a nice vibe, and I think I counted 3 Irish bars, so you can enjoy a little taste of home, probably surrounded by many English speakers.  Don’t worry.  You are still in France, but there is something of an eclectic feel around La Ciotat.  That’s why I like it.  

If you haven’t been, have a look.  You might just be as surprised as I was as to just how lovely this local fishing village really is. 

Image credit: All images copyright the author Suzanne Vidal Grosso

Have you ever been to La Ciotat? Is it now on your yet-to-visit list? Please comment below.

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