14.44 - The Wonder of French Cemeteries: silent stories, famous people, calm quiet places— well-known & little-known
In this FREE le Bulletin we explore French cemeteries: so full of history, & stories. Some are places of beauty & others are stark. PLUS we go to a private olive harvest & visit the Var: Le Brusc
Bonjour friends… I’m thrilled that you’re here again this week - bienvenue !
Here’s what you’ll find in this edition of le bulletin - happy reading.
What’s happening in MyFrenchLife Magazine - new articles about France.
Next, ‘The Wonder of French Cemeteries: silent stories, famous people, calm quiet places— well-known & little-known’
If you enjoy this edition, please note that every week there is another entirely different version of le bulletin exclusively for paying subscribers, and today that version is ‘14.44.a - Celebrating Normandy in all its guises… gastronomy, history, culture, art, literature...et al.’
Look for it in your inbox (or here) where you can access a trial, or a preview or an upgrade to enjoy it fully!
Judy - 9.11.’24
1. Let’s explore & read the new articles in My FrenchLife Magazine
Did you know there are >3000 articles in MyFrenchLife Magazine, where savvy francophiles love to immerse themselves and indulge?
Thank you to all Contributors to our magazine. I love that your articles take us from one end of France to another and constantly remind us of the rich culture of this wonderful and diverse country.
Merci.
Judy.
Here are the most recently published articles:
Vie française:
1 →Cote d’Azur: Our Olive Tree Harvest←
by Jacinta Bayard
Our Olive Harvest: There is something quite magical about the taste of olive oil fresh from the press. The rich aromas, the grassy, buttery flavor, as you dip your baguette into the thick green-yellow oil, savouring the peppery, spicy aftertaste—it is an experience you will never forget.” writes Jacinta
Escapades:
2. Le Var: Le Brusc — My favorite fishing village←
by Suzanne Vidal Grosso
I remember stumbling upon Le Brusc during a short pit stop in Sanury sur Mer. It was over 10 years ago and I decided to wander around and see what was nearby,” writes Suzanne.
↓ CLICK IMAGE & read all the new articles on MyFrenchLife Magazine ↓
2. The Wonder of French Cemeteries
Perhaps because we’ve just passed the period of Halloween, my mind turned to cemeteries and memories of discovery and peaceful times of exploration in French cemeteries.
Visiting these places may initially seem a little strange but trust me, they offer a unique glimpse into a city's soul.
They’re fascinating: quiet, reflective places full of history.
Whether you’re a lover of art and history or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, cemeteries are more than just places of rest—they’re windows into rich and layered pasts.
Today, I aim to explore and consider the rich stories waiting to be found in cemeteries. These are the resting places of the famous and the little-known… and there is even a cemetery for pets in Paris.
Let’s visit the French cemeteries below and view them through the eyes of these few authors. However, I’m hoping that I can whet your appetite and curiosity to encourage you to commence self-directed exploration beyond this le Bulletin feature.
I’d be so grateful if you’d share your attitude to visiting cemeteries and also share your experiences and photos of your cemetery visits in France.
… Before you set off to explore cemeteries I suggest you prepare for each adventure. Allow sufficient time, and make sure that you have water and a snack, because you may just decide to take a break, pause, and take time to reflect on life during your wanderings.
C;est parti ! Let’s go !
Judy
a) The Silent Stories of Paris: Exploring Cemeteries You Won't Forget - A journey through the lesser-known treasures of Paris, from iconic graveyards to the eerie Catacombs by Pierre Guernier
Paris is home to fourteen municipal cemeteries, covering a total of over 400 hectares.”
Each one has its own unique charm and history.”
The largest and most famous, Père Lachaise, spans nearly 44 hectares alone, while smaller gems like Cimetière du Calvaire are less than 0.1 hectare in size.”
In total, there are over 400,000 tombs spread across these cemeteries, with millions of Parisians resting beneath the city’s soil.”
Some cemeteries, like Père Lachaise, are home to over 70,000 graves, while others, such as Cimetière du Calvaire, have 85.”
What always fascinates me is the sheer number of trees—thousands of them, with Père Lachaise alone boasting over 5,000 trees.”
It makes these places feel more like peaceful parks than graveyards, particularly in the autumn when the golden leaves blanket the paths.”
This article will walk you through, the Iconic Père Lachaise Cemetery: A City Within a City, Montparnasse Cemetery: A Refuge of Philosophers and Artists, Montmartre Cemetery: The Quiet Soul of the Bohemian Heart, Passy Cemetery: A Hidden Gem with Views of the Eiffel Tower, and even lesser-Known Cemeteries: Charonne and Calvaire".”
b) Cemeteries: Famous people in out-of-the-way places— Van Gogh and Auvers-sur-Oise (a snippet) by Emily in France, Emily Monaco
Auvers-sur-Oise is a small village easily reachable by Paris, so this past Sunday, almost on a whim, we bundled up and got ourselves on a train. With a choice of changing trains or riding direct to nearby Saint-Méry, we opted for the latter, which meant we also enjoyed a 25-minutes’ walk across a picturesque bridge to the center of Auvers…” writes Emily.
The tourism board has done an excellent job ensuring that any pilgrims seeking Van Gogh surely find him…
…and even his tomb in the local cemetery, where he is buried alongside his brother and closest confidante, Theo.
There’s also a museum devoted to the works of Charles François Daubigny which, on the occasion of our visit, was hosting an exhibit of works that most inspired Van Gogh, displayed alongside placards quoting the letters in which he described them, usually to Theo. Immersing ourselves in the places and art that so inspired Van Gogh reminded me for the millionth time – because apparently, I still need reminding – just how lucky I am to live in Paris…” writes Emily.
Read her entire article about Van Gogh and Auvers-sur-Oise.
c) The Cat’s Meow: Explore the Cimetière des Chiens, the World’s Oldest Pet Cemetery by Theadora Brack
Celebrating International Pet Memorial Day every day, let’s hotfoot it on over a few hot tin roofs to one of my favorite resting spots, nestled in the northwest suburbs of Paris. At 4 Pont de Clichy in Asnières-sur-Seine, the Cimetière des Chiens et Autres Animaux Domestiques is one of the oldest pet cemeteries in the world. Shrouded in decaying grandeur, it’s the Père-Lachaise of pet cemeteries, and a great place to explore rain or shine. After all, everyone visits Chopin, Balzac, Modigliani, Proust, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, and Jim Morrison, but who spends time with Fifi and Toto? Meow from the other side After my own sweet kitty left this world for another Fancy Feast, here is where I spent many an hour.
Founded in 1899 by lawyer Georges Harmois and journalist Marguerite Durand, the cemetery became a National Landmark in 1987. By creating a final resting place that was not only hygienic, but also scenic and romantic, the zealous pair of animal advocates offered a healthy alternative to the then-common practice of dumping pets in the Seine or in trash bins, or scattering their ashes in the Médici Fountain at the Jardin du Luxembourg. (I’m surprised Marie de Médici didn’t put a hex on them for that!) Field of dreams
At first, not everyone was a believer. “The Paris Dog Cemetery is not regarded as a howling success,” one wet blanket journalist punned, not long after it opened its creaking gates for the first time. However, sometimes it’s true that when you build it, they do flock. Within eight years after the launch, 4,000 pets had been buried in the Cimetière des Chiens. By 1934, the number had jumped to an impressive 20,000. Picture postcards were printed, sold, and circulated, showcasing the bantam burial ground in all its dappled glory. Pumping up the publicity volume still more, Marguerite Durand placed advertisements in her own feminist newspaper, La Fronde…” writes Theadora Brack behind a paywall on Bonjour Paris.
d) D-Day (“Le Débarquement”) French Vocabulary etc: The Omaha Beach Cemetery by Olivier Karfis - learn French…
June 6th is a pretty special day. It’s the anniversary of D-Day and as both a French and US citizen, it has double the impact on me.
Camille and I live about 2.5 hours away from Omaha Beach and I have been there several times in the last 10 years. We also often pass by this area on our way to Paris by car and driving past city signs like “Arromanches”, ‘Carentan” or “Ouistreham” always gives me goosebumps.
First, let me tell you about some French D-day related vocabulary. Then, I’ll share my own experience of visiting the Normandy beaches with my best friend Kane.
e) B2🇫🇷: Père Lachaise: Mystères et Trésors Cachés du Cimetière des Célébrités⚰️✨- Exploring the Secrets & Stories Behind Paris' Most Famous Cemetery🕯️🌳 by Maud Druart and improve your French language skills
Listen to this podcast in French and you’ll find an English transcription←
Do you have a favourite Cemetery in France? Please share with me below. I’m here waiting for your comments
Judy
3. Have you noticed what’s happening on our Instagram? @MaVieFrancaise We’re celebrating a new collaboration!
We have a special collaboration with superb photographer Virginia Jones who during her many visits to Paris, has created an enormous archive that I refer to as Virginia’s visual stories of Paris.
Not only is her archive enormous but it’s also wonderous. I guarantee that Virginia’s photos will transport you to Paris!
The first of these photos have just been posted onto our Instagram account to celebrate the wonder of French cemeteries, to coincide with the FREE edition of le Bulletin newsletter 14.44 - Silent stories, famous people — calm quiet places— Well-known and little-known...
There will be more of our collaboration with Virginia to come… so head over to @MaVieFrancaise to check it out and be sure to follow :) Merci
4. “Thank you for subscribing to ‘le Bulletin’ newsletter” Judy MacMahon
I hope to see you here again soon
Judy MacMahon
Fondatrice
MyFrenchLife.org
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Loved Pierre Guernier’s article on Parisienne graveyards and I really want to visit the pet cemetery.
Our pleasure Pierre