French Soap: A Guide to Quality Soap from France

I’m always looking for different ways to incorporate more ‘Frenchness’ into my life, no matter where I am. One relatively inexpensive way I’ve found to do this is by using quality French soaps. I love craft soaps and have been buying them at farmers’ markets and specialty stores for years. Many soaps labeled as ‘French’ at markets and stores are good but do not compare with any of the soaps I’ve been buying directly from French soap makers.

To understand how French soaps are different from other soaps, it helps to learn about the background.

What is Soap?

Soap is a salt of a fatty acid used in a variety of cleansing and lubricating products. The chemical makeup of the ingredients used to make the soap determines whether it is toilet or non-toilet. Toilet soap is used to clean things, while non-toilet soap is used as a thickener or lubricant in manufacturing.”

A Brief History of Soap

The first soap-like material was created in 2800 BC in ancient Babylon. By 2500, the Sumerians were using a mixture of hot oil and ash to wash wool. In 1500 BC Egypt, the medical book of the time, the Ebers Papyrus, tells how the Egyptians used soap as medicine.”

From ancient through to medieval times, most soaps were made using a combination of animal fat or vegetable oil and ash – making a not-so-pleasant smelling product. Different regions around the world, however, started using olive oil, rather than animal fat, making the soap smell better. By the 15th century, soap-making was a profession in Spain, France, and Italy. In France, all of the soap for the country was made in Provence, Toulon, Hyères, and Marseille.

How Soap is Made

Very simply, soap is made through a chemical reaction called saponification, which occurs when the soap ingredients are mixed with lye. There are three ways to make soap: melt and pour cold process, and hot process.

1. Melt and Pour

The melt-and-pour process is the easiest way and is a favorite of soap hobbyists because you do not have to handle lye, which can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. This method uses a ready-made soap base that has already gone through saponification, melts it, adds coloring, fragrance, and other decorations, and pours it into molds. There is no curing period, so the soap can be used as soon as it is fully cooled.

2. Cold Process

In the cold process, the soap maker causes saponification when mixing the oils with lye (it will heat up). When this mixture cools, you can add dyes or fragrances and pour the mixture into molds. There is a four to six-week ‘curing’ period before the soap can be used.

3. Hot Process

The hot process uses an external heat source to cause saponification. The ingredients and lye are ‘cooked’ to a specific temperature and for a specific length of time. When the mixture reaches a certain phase, you can add coloring or fragrance before pouring it into molds. The soap can be used
within 24 hours; however, letting it cure for 1-2 weeks improves the quality of the bar.

French Soap

There are two main categories of soap in France: Marseilles and milled.

1. Marseille

According to the Union des Professionnels du Savon de Marseille (UPSM), genuine Savon de Marseille (soap of Marseille) is made:

• In Marseille or the Marseille region
• Using a traditional process
• Using only four ingredients: fats, soda, water, and sea salt
• Using only plant oils (72% must be olive oil)
• Without fragrance, dyes, or preservatives

The bar should also contain the Savon de Marseille stamp.

A few of the top Marseille soap makers in France are:

• Fer à Cheval is located in Marseille and has been in business since 1856. They have a whole line of soap and other products and will ship outside of France.
• Savon de Marseille is located in Marseille; I couldn’t find anything on their website about how long they have been in business. They have various soap products and will ship outside of France.
• Savonnerie Marius Fabre is located in Marseille and has been in business since 1900. They have a line of products, but soap is their main one. They have free tours of their manufacturing plant and will ship outside of France.
• Fun fact: Fer à Cheval and Savonnerie Marius Fabre are two of the founding members of the UPSM.

I have been using the original olive oil and palm oil bars of Marseille soap from Savon de Marseille for the last three years and have to say the olive oil is my favorite.

2. Milled

After the saponification process, the soap mixture is put through high-pressure stainless-steel rollers to remove any moisture and air and ensure all of the ingredients are well mixed. French milled soap is run through the milling machine a minimum of three times, so you’ll sometimes hear it called triple milled. Most milled soap starts out the same way as Marseille soap, so technically it could be called Savon de Marseille; however, purists disagree that it is not true Marseille soap because of the milling process.

A couple of the top milled soap makers in France are:

• Bastide, located in Aix-en-Provence, has been in business for 25 years and is owned by celebrity hairstylist, Frederic Fekkai, and his wife. The company markets itself as a beauty and well-being company selling more than just soap. They will ship outside of France.
• Pré de Provence is located in Provence (and a location in Italy) and has been in business for 45 years. Their product line goes beyond soap and they will ship outside of France.

How to immerse yourself into the world of French soap or try making your own soap

I had a lot of fun researching this article and learning about different soaps and their makers. I encourage you to visit the websites I listed. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous and want to try your hand at soap making, these websites may be helpful:

• The Nerdy Farm Wife.com
• Handcrafted Soap and Cosmetic Guild
• An internet search on soap making will also give you dozens of other resources. If you do want to make soap, it’s important to learn how to do it properly to avoid injury.

Have you used any of the soap brands listed in the article? Or other French brands? Let me know in the comments.

Image Credits
1. Ebers Papyrus via commons.wikimedia.org
2. Soap factory in Nablus via commons.wikimedia.org
3. Savon de Marseille via Wikipedia.org
4. French soap milling machine via NaturalFrenchSoap.com