A story of wine & wanderlust: The Ultimate Solo Burgundy Guide – chapter 4

I left the hotel the next morning intending to go into Beaune. But a sign pointing in the other direction said “Pommard 0.9 km”. It was early and I decided that a ten-minute walk to a famous wine village was a better option. Little did I know what was in store for me there…

Gerry’s tips… from personal experience – Beaune

A mysterious stranger & une verre du vin

After a little while, I found a walled vineyard and recognised the name ‘Clos de Epenots’. Around the corner was the impressive Château de Pommard. I entered the front gate and strolled up the gravel drive. Detouring to the right, I found the 17th Century winery.

A door slammed behind me and I turned to find someone hurrying across the large cobbled courtyard. He caught sight of me and stopped in his tracks. “Bonjour Monsieur” he said. “Bonjour” I replied.

“Avez vous une dégustation?” He looked at his watch and responded, this time in English. “It is only 9:15am, which is rather early to be drinking wine, is it not?” I shrugged and explained, “I have only been in France for a few days and I am still on Australian time.” He looked me in the eye and replied, “You are not in France you are in Burgundy. Come this way.”

Burgundy: a private wine-tasting tour

He charged a small fee and took me on a tour of the cellars. He asked me if I had ever tasted Château Pommard and I told him I had and that I’d enjoyed it very much. He smiled. “We only make one wine here but I will give you something interesting.”

He opened a bottle of 1989 Château de Pommard and poured us each a generous serving of the classic Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is such a misunderstood variety in Australia and many never have the opportunity to taste a classic French version.

The wine had a perfumed aroma of violets – it tasted of rich sweet dark fruit, but finished with an astringency showing the fine oak tannins.

We discussed the wine and I felt a tremendous buzz. I had this world-famous vineyard all to myself.

Finishing the wine, I prepared to thank him. He raised an eyebrow and said, “Perhaps we should have another?” It wasn’t a hard decision. “Absolument,” I replied.

Pommard: the price of quality in Burgundy

We walked out into the strong early morning sunshine and I was rather bemused. This chap had a lot of the customary Gallic formality and aloofness. However, he had a genuine interest in talking to me. How strange!

We paused in the vineyard and I commented that the vines appeared to be very old. I asked why they were trimmed down to hip height and each only carried a few bunches of grapes. “It takes the grapes of two vines to make one bottle of Château Pommard,” he explained. “This is the price of quality.”

We shook hands and I continued 200 metres into the village of Pommard. How surprising that this world-famous wine was produced in a village with just a few hundred residents! I smiled; the day had got off to the most wonderful start. I only wondered what other adventures awaited me…

Have you ever attended a private wine tour in France? Which wines were your favourites? We’d love to hear your thoughts and recommendations in the comments box below.